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Monday, August 23, 2010

Mystical Matheran! My much needed getaway from Mumbai!

I love impromptu trips! The uncertainty of the journey is what makes the trip exhilarating for me. As I bumped into numerous people, each sweatier than the last, in a crowded Mumbai street, I knew I needed to get away from the throngs of the city. So I set out with two of my girlfriends to explore the quaint city of Matheran on one Saturday morning in January.

Getting there was fairly uncomplicated. After a one and a half hour train ride from Mumbai to Neral, we were almost at our destination. At Neral, we vacillated between boarding the toy train to Matheran and hailing a cab to the city. When we finally decided to board the toy train, all the second class seats had been sold out and we were forced to purchase first class seats. Second class seats are Rs. 20 each while first class seats are ten times more at Rs. 200 per person. The actual difference between first class and second class seats? Not much! The lesson learned? Indecision can cost you 180 bucks! While the toy train is cute (for lack of a better word) it really isn’t very efficient. After waiting for the delayed train to move for half an hour, we were finally on our way (at snail speed, however) The slow journey through the mountains was made slower by frequent stops on the way. But the sluggishness of the train was compensated by the scenic view. Literally cutting through the mountains, the train allows you to view Matheran from within it’s core. And when we encountered the breathtaking views of lush mountains and deep valleys, a few delays were forgiven. In fact, all our big city impatience was replaced by a sense of calmness.

The moment you land in Matheran, you realize two things; 1. Being one of few cities in the world that doesn’t allow motor vehicles within the city means that there is zero pollution here 2. Matheran is characterized by distinct red mud that will cling to your shoes and jeans, no matter what you do. After lunch and a quick nap at the hotel, we walked towards sunset point (Porcupine point), which was conveniently located at a distance of only 500 meters from our hotel situated close to the Bazaar.

Off the beaten path

Sunset point did not disappoint; the view of the setting sun over the sprawling mountains was nothing short of spectacular. An interesting sight at sunset point was the cluster of horses waiting patiently for their riders to finish admiring the sunset and get back on them. Horses in Matheran all adorn saddles with their names on them and these range from quirky (Romantic boy) to common (Raja)! Another display that caught our attention was one that read ‘Best Vegetable Sandwich in Maharashtra’ at the only food stall at sunset point. Although we had helped ourselves to a heavy thali lunch at our hotel just two hours ago, we couldn’t resist and simply had to satiate our curiosity. The verdict? Definitely not the best sandwich in Maharashtra! While we indulged in our sandwiches, we didn’t realize how quickly dusk was descending. By the time we started trekking down, all the other tourists had already headed down to the main market. Luckily we had a torch that served as our guide towards the Bazaar. Any sound or rustling of leaves on the dark pathway made us jumpy; this trip had become way too adventurous for our liking and now all we really wanted was to see some crowd! Suddenly being surrounded by a multitude of people in Mumbai didn’t seem like such a bad thing. We reached a path that forked and we had no clue which direction to head. It was then that we spotted two kind men who advised us to take a left. Once we took the left, we soon noticed groups of tourists ahead and simply followed them to safety! Our frayed nerves could only be soothed by shopping and so that was next on the agenda. Matheran’s Bazaar has many tiny shops full of curios and unique mementos. Matheran’s specialties, however, are chikki, fudge, honey and footwear. For as little as R.s.100, we found locally produced Kohlapuri chappals and strappy sandals. Bazaar street also has a couple of cheap dining options with Pav bhaji, Vada pav and chaat being the most popular food items. Some of the colonial-style guesthouses and hotels in the vicinity also offer sumptuous Parsi delicacies.

What’s in a name?

Discovered by Hugh Malet in 1850, Matheran literally means ‘jungle on top’ as it is at an altitude of approximately 800 metres above sea level. Lord Elphinstone, the then Governor of Bombay laid the foundations of the development as a future hill station. The British developed Matheran as a popular resort to beat the summer heat of the west coast.
And it is being used for exactly this purpose by tourists mainly from neighboring cities; Mumbai and Pune.

Early to bed and early to rise


After gorging on our dinner, we headed to bed early as we had been warned by our horse keeper that if we didn’t head out at 5.30am, we wouldn’t catch the sun rise in time at Paranoma point. When we woke up at 5.45am, we had half a mind to simply sleep in but thankfully, we braved the chilly early morning air and headed to our horses. As we trotted on the extremely well-trained ponies under the moon and stars, we silently soaked the magical moment.
When we finally arrived at sunrise point, we were pleased to find company. Scores of tourists (some in their PJs) had also sacrificed their sleep to catch the first rays of the morning sun. A decision no one regretted; as per the glow on everyone’s sleepy faces. The power of nature is such that it recharges, rejuvenates and nourishes. I don’t know a better way to start the day than sipping a cup of hot tea and gazing at the all-encompassing Sahadyri ranges all around you.
Energized, we got back on our ponies to explore the rest of Matheran. We visited Echo point, Lord’s point and Honeymoon hill. While the view is spectacular from every point, the spot that was the most impactful was the charming Charlotte lake. Gazing at the still lake, I felt as tranquil as the calm water itself.
What followed next was a must-do for any thrill seeker. Valley Crossing from Honeymoon point to Louisa Point is a once in a lifetime experience. This entails crossing 900 feet in a span of approximately 3 minutes while being harnessed on a rope. What started out as a terrifying experience soon became an enjoyable one as I realized that instead of looking at the 1200 feet below me I needed to look around. Met by a glorious mountain in any direction I looked, I have never felt more in sync with nature.

And that is precisely what Matheran is all about; oneness with nature. This eco-sensitive hill station not only makes for an escape from city mayhem, it introduces you to a whole new world.

Fact file:
Getting there:
- Matheran is located about 100 km from Mumbai and 120 km from Pune. Matheran is connected by a toy train to the mainline rail route at Neral Junction. Neral Junction is well connected by local trains from CST along the CST-Karjat route.
- Matheran can be reached from Mumbai via Navi Mumbai and Panvel via the old Mumbai-Pune road (NH-4)
- From Neral, one can either rent a taxi (50 rupees for a shared cab, 250 for the whole car) to the entrance of Matheran. From the Dasturi Park (last taxi/car stop at the entrance of the city) at Matheran, one can walk to the city center or rent a horse (150-200 rupees per horse).
Accommodation:
- Matheran has a range of options: from MTDC for budget stay to The Verandah in the forest; a British Colonial era bungalow converted to a heritage hotel. Affordable 3-star accommodation is available but booking in advance is essential especially for weekends and during the peak seasons (Dec-Jan and April-June).
Travel tips:
- Carry a good pair of comfortable walking shoes. Matheran is quite dusty and there is red soil everywhere.
- Avoid carrying too much baggage with you. You can't take it up by car and need to carry it while walking or on horseback.
- The weather is pleasant throughout the year. While the views are spectacular during the monsoons, the ground is also slippery and wet.
- Take a cab from Neral station to Dasturi or vice versa if you are in a hurry. It takes 20 minutes by cab and 40 minutes by the toy train.